Visiting Catanduanes, The Land of the Howling Winds

One of the many islands I had the privilege to explore on official business is Catanduanes. I practically lived in the island for over six (6) months, working on weekdays and exploring on weekends. I have been to each and every known tourist destination and attraction of the island, except those that require crossing seas. I have also taken my trips to the mainland of Bicol via the only two passenger or public ports of the island, in San Andres and right in the heart of Virac. It is therefore safe to say that I know the island pretty well and my father will definitely be proud of me for knowing his roots, my roots.

 

Catanduanes Daily Ferry (RORO) Schedule

Back in 2000, there are two ferry companies lying the Lagunoy gulf to take passengers to and from Tabaco and Catanduanes via Virac and San Andres. One of the shipping lines (Bicolandia Lines) was owned by a Tabaco local business mogul while the other (Regina), from San Andres – the owner of Catanduanes Hemp. Eugenia plied the Tabaco – Virac route while Regina plied the San Andres – Tabaco route. Each shipping line has two vessels – one in the morning and another in the afternoon – from different ports in Catanduanes. Due to the high volume of passengers, a Supercraft was added to the lines later on.

 

Here’s the RoRo Schedule of both shipping lines:

Tabaco City to Virac

Ø  MV Eugenia (Bicolandia Lines)

                (052) 487-6349

                Daily 8:00 am

Ø  MV Star Ferry 1 (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 2:00 pm

Virac, Catanduanes to Tabaco City

Ø  MV Star Ferry 1 (Regina Shipping Lines)

(052) 811-1707

                Daily 9:00 am

Ø  MV Eugenia (Bicolandia Lines)

(052) 487-6349

Daily 1:30 pm

Tabaco City to San Andres, Catanduanes

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

(052) 811-1707

Daily 5:30 am

Ø  MV Regina Calixta II (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 8:00 am 

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily (1:30 pm) 

San Andres, Catanduanes To Tabaco City

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

Daily 9:30 am 

Ø  MV Regina Calixta II (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 12:00 NN

 These days though, only one one vessel plies the Tabaco – Virac route and two ferries from Regina Shipping are transporting passengers on a daily basis. Here is the schedule of the routes:

 Tabaco City (Albay) – San Andres (Catanduanes)

Ø  Leaving at 0700H (7 AM) and arriving at 1300H (1 PM)

 San Andres (Catanduanes) – Tabaco City (Albay)

Ø  0800H (8 AM) and 1300H (1 PM)

For inquiries, Regina Shipping Lines can be contacted in these numbers:

Ø  Tabaco City booking office: 09237383785

Ø  San Andres booking office: 09237383790

Getting around Catanduanes

The main transportation when you are in Virac is tricycle and for long distance, there are jeepneys and vans. The terminal for jeepneys and buses are located near the Virac and San Andres markets while the vans and private rides are near the port of San Andres and Virac. There are also motorcycles and bikes for rent for those who want to get to their destinations faster.

Attractions in Catanduanes

Catanduanes has 11 Towns. Catanduanes is divided into two parts, West Catanduanes and East Catanduanes. West Catanduanes is composed of 3 Towns that lies in the western part of the Island; Virac, San Andres (Calolbon) and Caramoran while East Catanduanes is composed of 8 Towns that lies in the eastern part of the Island; Bato, San Miguel, Baras, Gigmoto, Viga, Panganiban (Payo), Bagamanoc and Pandan. Each Town has their attractions.

The West Attractions of Catanduanes

Ø  Little Batag Beach in Virac, Catanduanes

“Saday na Batag” to locals, the Little Batag Beach is situated in Barangay Batag of Virac, Catanduanes. 15 kilometers west of Virac Town, this Catanduanes attraction can be reached in 30 minutes.

Ø  Talahid Falls, Cabungahan, San Andre, Catanduanes

Featuring a 2-tiered waterfalls, Talahid Falls has brought Brgy. Cabungahan of San Andres (Calolbon) to the limelight. It is 26 kilometers west of San Andres and can be reached in an hour and a half.

Ø  Hawan Grande Luyang Cave / Cueva de Grande in Virac, Catanduanes

“Hawan Grande Luyang Cave” to locals, the Cueva de Grande is situated in Brgy. Hawan Grande of Virac, Catanduanes. This cave can be reached in around 20 or 25 minutes and is 13 kilometers off west of Virac Town.

Ø  Prayer Mountain of Catanduanes, VIrac

10 kilometers off the west of Virac is the Prayer Mountain. It is a maintained natural resource in Brgy. Bigaa, Virac, Catanduanes.

Ø  Tampad Beach Talisoy Beach, Virac, Catanduanes

Also known as “Talisoy Beach”, “Talisoy Cove” and/or “Jesus’ Face Beach”, Tampad Beach is situated in Brgy. Talisod, Virac, Catanduanes. It is 14 kilometers off west of the town and 20 minutes to reach. 

Ø  Binanderahan Hill, Palumbanes Island, Brgy. Toytoy, Caramoran, Catanduanes

“Parompong” to many, Palumbanes Islands or simply Palumbanes, is a group of islets 60 kilometers west of Caramoran, in the Maqueda Channel. It can be reached in about 3 hours.

Ø  Museo de Catanduanes, Virac, Catanduanes

3 minutes or half kilometer away from the CBD of Virac is the Museo de Catanduanes. The island’s main museum was built for the public through the efforts of the Provincial Tourism Office of Catanduanes.

Ø  Kuripdas Surf Spot

Kuripdas Surf Spot is 15 kilometers or 25 minutes away from the CBD of Virac, thereby the nearest surfing location for those who visits the island.

Ø  Mamangal Beach

In 20 minutes and 12 kilometers from downtown Virac, the Mamangal Beach is the nearest place to enjoy the sun and shores of the island. This beach is in Barangay Balite.

Ø  Magnesia del Sur Beach

25 minutes or 15 kilometers off Virac is the Magnesia del Sur Beach. It may be underdeveloped but is preferred by most tourists.

Ø  Magnesia del Norte Beach

Gold to white sand is what made Magnesia del Norte Beach appealing to tourists. It is 27 minutes or 14.5 kilometers off CBD.

Ø  Luyang Cave

10 kilometers or 20 minutes off Virac is Luyang Cave of Barangay Lictin, San Andres, Catanduanes. It features lots and lots of bats as well as titanic rock formations.

Ø  Sto Domingo River

Santo Domingo River is 10 minutes or 6.5 kilometers from Virac and is a good swimming alternative for the salty beaches of the island. It is frequented by locals and is gaining popularity with tourists.

Ø  Batong Paloway

The Batong Paluway is a gradually increasing in size stone with etchings of Our Lady of Sorrows. It can be visited 30 minutes or 20 kilometers from San Andres.

Ø  Virac Cathedral

Right in the heart of Virac is the Virac Cathedral aka Church of the Immaculate Conception.

Ø  Mount Cagmasoso

Home to Luyang Cave, mount Cagmasoso is the highest mountain in Catanduanes. It is in San Andres and is 30 minutes of 15 kilometers away from the CBD.

Ø  Amenia Beach

25 minutes or 13 kilometers off San Andres is the Amenia Beach. It features cream-colored fine sand and clear unspoiled waters.

Ø  Igang Beach aka Twin Rock Beach Resort

Well-developed with unspoiled beauty 15 minutes or 12 kilometers from CBD of Virac is Igang Beach, but is more famous in the name of Twin Rock Beach.

Ø  Marilima Beach

Featuring white sands and blue waters, Marilima Beach has become a tourist attraction in Virac. It can be reached in 20 minutes and 14 kilometers.

Ø  Batag Beach

Right next to another tourist attration beach in Virac, Marilima Beach, is the Batag Beach. It is famous for the great rock formations on it and the pristine waters. In just 22 minutes and 14.5 kilometers, this attraction can be easily reached.

East Attractions of Catanduanes

Ø  Bitaogan Beach, Bato, Catanduanes

Bitaogan Beach is known in many names: Bitaogan Cove and Victoria Cove. This beach is in Sitio Bitaogan, Pananaogan, Bato and can be reached in an hour or 18 kilometers.

Ø  Batalay Mangrove Ecological Park, Bato, Catanduanes

30 minutes or 20 kilometers off Bato is the Mangrove Reforestation Program of Barangay Batalay. It is a 10 –hectare plantation in the town of Bato.

Ø  Cagraray Island aka Patag Island, Catanduanes

“Patag Island” to locals, the Cagraray Island is in Brgy. Cagraray, Bato, Catanduanes. It can be reached in 1.5 hours or 30 Kilometers.

Ø  Nahulugan Falls, Gigmoto, Catanduanes

2.5 hours and 55 kilometers off Gigmoto is Nahulugan Falls, still an undiscovered beauty in the verdant hills of the town.

Ø  Binurong Point, Brgy. Guinsaanan, Baras, Catanduanes

Binurong Point is the pride of Brgy. Guinsaanan of Baras as it joins the attractions of the island. It can be reached in an hour and a half or 35 kilometers.

Ø  DOST PAG-ASA Weather Radar Station

In 30 minutes to an hour or approximate 20 to 25 kilometers, the PAGASA Weather Radar Station can be reached. It is in Barangay Buenavista, Bato, and is becoming one of the most visited destinations in Catanduanes.

Ø  Bote Lighthouse

22 kilometers or 35 to 45 minutes off Bato is Brgy. Bote, home to the Bote Lighthouse. It is an attraction that is visited by national and international tourists.

Ø  Sakahon Beach

Sakahon Beach is in Brgy. Bote, 35 minutes or 20 kilometers off Bato.

Ø  Mount Lantad

Bato’s pride, Mount Lantad, can provide 360 degrees of Bato and Virac perspective. It is about a couple or more hours trek and 14 kilometers from the town proper. It stands less than 1,200 feet above the ground.

Ø  Balacay Point

Balacay Point or Benticayan point is a tourist spot in Brgy. Benticayan, Baras. It can be reached in an hour and a half and 35 kilometers off town proper.

Ø  Bato Church

Bato Church is one of the oldest Catholic parishes in the country, dating back the 16th century. It can be reached in 15 minutes and 13 kilometers from town proper.  

Ø  Puraran Surf Spot

This is where the “Majestic Waves” of the island can be found. Surfer’s fantasy is definitely fulfilled in the Puraran Surf Spot. It can be reached in an hour and 35 kilometers off the town proper.

Ø  Maribina Falls

With 5 to 6 meters swimming pool, the Maribina Falls has become one of the most famous waterfalls in the island. It is in the town of Bato and can be reached in 8 minutes and 5.5 kilometers off the town proper.

Getting Around Cebu for the First Time

Cebu is one of the famous metropolitans in the countries. It is so known and respected for everything that it can offer – from attractions to educational institutions – that even the then president Gloria Macapagal Arroyo chose to be sworn at Sugbu Park, the serene park just outside the capitol, the Magellan’s Cross Shrine and the Basilica Minor del Santo Niño de Cebu. There were even talks before to make the dialect of the city the national language and/or to trade Cebu City to be the capital of the country. All of these things have fired up my interest to eventually come up close and personal with this place one day.

 

That “one day” came on the 14^th to 17^th of January 2010. My closest colleagues and I agreed to plan our first out of town travel together and we have chosen to fly to Cebu and Tagbilaran to see the Magellan’s Cross Shrine and the Chocolate Hills. The plans kicked off well ahead of our travel dates, about six months before, so we had so much time researching about the attractions, tours, accommodations, and utilities, and transportations in the city. We had a long list of choices then narrowed them down according to reviews and blogs of those who have been in the area. We printed a map of the island and mainland and then their road maps. This way, we were able to make a good plan of the daily itinerary. Then we contacted the people we would want to hire, from the driver down to the guides. We settled to the highly recommended of those time, Kuya Jhun and Kuya Noel.

 

Day 1

The day came and I and my officemate convene with our other travel buddies who came all the way from Legazpi City at the Ninoy Aquino Airport. We checked in, board and arrive on time at the Mactan Cebu International Airport. From there, Kuya Jhun – our hired transpo and guide – meet us and take us to our first stop of the tour, the Magellan’s Shrine. It was right there in Mactan, along the way to Lapu-Lapu City so our guide wanted to maximize our travel and time so he didn’t waste any time and distance. The place was nice and barren although it was poetic. After taking photos and bumming around, he took us to nearby SuTuKil (Sugba-Tula-Kilaw) stalls, their famous local cuisine. The food was great and the prices were just right.

Then we had the great road trip to the capital city. I would’ve loved to stop right at the entrance or exit of the metal suspension bridge but Kuya Jhun told that it was illegal so we just drove passed it. After more than an hour road trip, we already saw the malls and we knew that we are near our hotel. Our accommodation was at the oldest street in the city, Colon Street. The entrance to the hotel was small that our driver had a hard time looking for it. What’s good about our hotel was that it was nice and inexpensive plus it was right in the middle of the CBD. The food strip of the city was right next to us and most of the huge malls were all sitting next to us. Little did we know that the street itself was an attraction and historical destination of the South.

Our first day was fully loaded. After dropping by our hotel to check in and leave our bags, we immediately hopped back in our vehicle and drove off to our next destination – the Fort San Pedro aka Plaza Independencia. It was near the pier so we also dropped by to buy our tickets to Tagbilaran the next day. Within walking distance was the Magellan’s Cross Shrine, which is right next to the Basilica Minore and the university. A little walk took us to the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral, the Pari-an or Heritage of Cebu Monument. The Carbon Street was near but we didn’t dropped by yet and instead looked for Rico’s Lechon, a name highly recommended by Team Pacquiao’s Buboy Fernandez and wife Mariclaire. Kuya Jhun can’t find the place so we went to CnT Lechon instead, an establishment just in front of SM Cebu.

After that, Kuya Jhun took us to a cruise along Fuente Osmena where we saw the famous Crown Regency Hotel’s Skywalk tower, capitol and a lot more. Then we cruised the Ayala and Imus Avenues to get a good look of the city. A little over 4 o’clock, we head for the Tops where we can get a good look of the skyline and 360 degrees of the city. As promised, the place was a vantage point of the city. It was really good up there and there was a huge bell at the top. The area was a park-like destination to tourists. It was just sad that we don’t have a good camera back then so I wasn’t able to get a 360 degrees photo of the city. We watched the sun set up there and head down for the Larsian but it was full. Kuya Jhun recommended AAA and we had a good SuTuKil dinner in the place.

 

With our eyes, mind, heart, and stomach full, we head back to our hotel. We gave Kuya Jhun his take and provided instruction for the next morning. Since we were happy of how smoothly things were, we also gave Kuya Jhun a little bonus.   

Day 2

Bohol Trip

After a day in Cebu City, we hopped the Supercat to Tagbilaran aka Bohol. The weather was good and the ocean was so blue that we didn’t realize the long cruise to the land of Tarsiers and Chocolate Hills was fast appearing right before our eyes. Once we reached the destination, the tour guide that we hired immediately flashed the name card that showed the name of one of our travel buddies. We approached him and he gave us a good orientation on the tour ahead of us. As soon as we are settled in the van, he gave us a nice historical story of Bohol – how it became famous and why it is important to visit the province.  

Our first stop was the Blood Compact site or Sandugo Shrine in Barangay Bool, Tagbilaran City, Bohol. This is a masterpiece of the great National Artist Napoleon Isabelo Veloso Abueva, a local of the province. It portrays the blood compact between the Spaniard who conquered the Philippines, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Bohol Chieftain Datu Sikatuna on the 16^th of March 1565 – a date that is celebrated by Boolanos and the entire province in a festival.

Then, we drove off to the old Baclayon Church where short shorts are a no-no. One of my travel buds were told to wear a long skirt from the church so she can enter the home of God. At the back was a nice “gamut” house, meaning roots house and true to the name, there was a house there that is built in roots. Out in the garden are different flowering plants and shrubs as well as domesticated pets. Next stop was the Laoay Church and then went for Tarsier stalls somewhere in between Loboc and Bilar. While the wooded area in Bilar could have been near for us drop by and continue to Carmen for the Choco Hills, our guide recommended to go back for the Loboc Cruise and lunch.

And so we continue to a place where a huge snake has become an attraction, which is along our way to the Cruise. It was not among my favorites though, especially when Prony, the snake, got to enjoy an entire pig for his lunch. I had to stay behind and wait for my travel buds to get back to the van so we can continue the tour. Next, we stopped by Loboc Cruise for lunch. It was a nice buffet styled lunch in cruise, passing by singing groups in different locations along the Loboc River. After a good 30 minutes cruise-cum-lunch, we alighted the boat and once again go on a road trip, this time to the hanging bridges of Batuan. It is in this area that souvenirs are really cheap. Then it is time to see the Chocolate Hills in Carmen. Along the road to Carmen, we passed by Bilar’s woods and then the Butterfly Sanctuary.

Finally, we reached Carmen and turned to the alley that leads to the Chocolate Hills observation hill. There stood a stairwell that leads to the top of the hill where a bell and wishing well are perched. At the back side of the top was an open land of grass where one can have a nice photo opp with the choco hills as backdrop. It was really a beauty to behold although the colors of the hills would have been like chocos if it were summer. Still, the great hills were really an excellent sight. At the other side of the observation hill is the choco hills hotel. I wonder how it feels to stay in the hotel but staying in a resort in the nearvy Panglao Island is much more desirable to me. Once we descended, we agreed to go directly to the hotel we have reserved in Panglao Island. Our guide recommended another resort hotel though and while we were adamant, when we get there, we were in awe.

Our guide took us to Bagobo Beach Resort. The place was nice and the rooms that were given to us are at the beachfront. The beach was superb. The sand was as white as white can get and the ambiance was peaceful and quiet. The only let down in the resort was the unfriendly staff who were curt and insensitive to the needs of their guests. I gave our guide his take plus a little bonus and instructed him to fetch us the following afternoon for our cruise back to Cebu. We checked in the two beachfront cottages, and while waiting for dinner strolled along the white shore and bummed off to Cebu Beach Club and Resort. We passed by a few hotel and peddlers of earrings and necklaces along the way. Then we head back to the hotel to watch the sunrise and dip in the beach before we hit the dining table.

Once again, the servers were curt and feel like they don’t want to do us favors. If not for the nice ambiance and place, we would’ve packed our bags and look for another hotel. Since we are just staying overnight and the call time for our island hop is very early, we just let their disrespecting ways to go. We lounged some more after the dinner and stayed out in the shore where some beach umbrellas and beach beds were set up. A little over midnight, we hit the sack.

Day 3

Just before the sun rises, we were up and waiting for another guide who will take us to the nearby islands of Panglao – Balicasag and somewhere near the Pamilacan island for dolphin watching. They said that the dolphins will be out before 7 am so armed with our hot coffees to-go, we cruised the clean blue seas that will take us near the Pamilacan island before we set sail for Balicasag Island where our lunch will be waiting. We were not as lucky though so after a few more tries in different locations, we gave up and head for Balicasag Island. For a meager P150 per head, we enjoyed unlimited rice, cooked fish of different kinds and sizes, lobsters, crabs, shrimps, lots of buttered chicken, and mixed veggies. We were so full that we were no longer able to swim in the clear blue waters of the island.

A couple of hours more, we left for the resort. We reached way before sunset so we still had time to frolic on the shore and the beach. We swam and bummed around to our content then ordered dinner from the curt staff of the resort and requested for our food to be served out on the beach. At least they did that and we had a great last night stay with them. Beaten from the day’s activities, we hit the sack earlier.

Day 4

Once up, I tagged my roommate to get a sight of the sunrise on the beach. It was heartwarming with the early summer weather. We swam and a few more moments, our other travel buddies are up and joined us. Breakfast were ordered and consumed fast, and not wanting to be left off by Supercat, we head back to our rooms to pack. At the shore, we bought a few more take homes then head back to the resort to check out. Our guide is back to fetch us and take us to the pier.

Before lunch, we were already at the pier. We said our final goodbyes and gave our guide his final pay and bonus. Then, we head to the canteen for our lunch. Before one, we are in the boat and waiting for it to leave. Once again, the beautiful sceneries let us forget the time we were in the boat and we were in Cebu terminal in no time. From there, our city guide took fetch us and drive us down our hotel. The staff and servers of the hotel were happy to see us back, then recommended that we start our way to Carbon market soon to enjoy buying our take homes. We did and it was really fun to buy things at this market, everything was cheap and everyone is nice.

We went back to basilica and cathedral as well as the cross shrine before heading back to the hotel. For our last dinner in Cebu, we ditched the local mid-range restos for the smokey food strip next our hotel. We had what the common working Cebuanos would have for dinner – sinugba or skewed foods, fish, meat or seafood. We also tried their puso or the rice cooked in coconut cream. After dinner, we walked down the street of colon and the nearby avenue to get rid of our fullness and smokey scent but more importantly to see Cebu one last time. We head back to our rooms and had a great night.

Day 5

While everyone was preparing and packing their things back to their bags, I was out to carbon market for another round of dangit or dried fish. Then I head back to the church to say a prayer and walked back to our hotel. We then called on our guide during our first day to take us to airport where we had our lunch. We boarded and were back in Manila where three of our buds will have to wait for their flight back to Legazpi city. Overall, we had the best travel yet to a place we do not know of.

Cost

Each of has had shelled out 5,000 each for the 5 days we were in vacation, excluding airfare which we got at sale price. We, the ones from Manila, spent a few more for our transpo from our place to the airport. The ones from Bicol or Legazpi City had probably spent P2,500 to P3,000 more for their transpo back home. Overall, I could say that it was money spent wisely.

Panglao Beach, A Less Crowded but as White and Clean as Any Other Beach in Bohol

This is how beautiful the sunrise is in Panglao Beach as we watch from our cozy resort, the Bagobo Beach Resort. We watched the sun rises while we wait for our motorized boat to fetch us for our early morning tour to the Virgin islands and sand bars in Bohol. Not to worry about our stomachs, we brought some hot coffee and breads to the waiting area.

We had this photo taken while waiting for our boat. It is not a perfect shot but I just love how everything worked so well in the composition - except for someone's head replaced with the sun :)

This is how clear the water is in front of Bagobo Beach Resort. It was really a beauty.

We cruised while the sun is still rising. We hoped to see dolphins along the way but we were not as lucky as the others.

That's our boatman trying to look for the best spot to find dolphins but to no avail.

Finally, kuya - our boatman - gave up and instead led us to the Balikasag Island where we will have our lunch.

Getting Around Bohol and All Its Tourist Attractions

My first time in Bohol was in 2010. Some former officemates and I planned for a Cebu and Bohol getaway for 5 days. I had so much expectation and Tagbilaran is one not to disappoint. People are nice and helpful, the province was clean, and the food was great.

To reach Bohol from Cebu, we took a very early vessel to the province of Chocolate Hills. The cruise took 4 precious hours but with the nice scenery, nobody complained.

First off, we stop at the Blood Compact site then head to where the Tarsiers were. There were plenty of places to find these cute creatures and our helpful driver took us to one of the finest as seen below.

There were also Flying Trapeze and Snakes, and Monkeys that we stopped at along the way before we head off to the Lunch Cruise. Our driver was such a timid guy, and he did not join us in the cruise. It was fun and eyes and belly filling lunch as we navigate the great river of Tagbilaran.

This is a stop over for the Cruise where local singers perform to the delight of the tourists.

After the cruise, we head off to Bilar where the nice, tall woods are clustered. Here is a sample of what to see in the woods.

This is a photo of the beach near the Blood Compact site.  

Photos inside Baclayon Church

 

The Gamut House outside the Baclayon Church

 After the long day, our driver took us to a different hotel, which he believed was a better place than the one we booked. I'll post more information on that on another post.