Remembering the Best of Catanduanes

A friend of mine is so allured with Catanduanes Island and knowing that I have a bit of a knack for traveling, she asked if I knew of any attractions in it. I wished she could’ve been more specific but vague questions like that take me back to the years I had spent in the island – the days when everything seems as easy as the waves touching the old docks with that familiar ocean splash.

I did spend about a couple of years in Catanduanes somewhere from 2000 to 2001 when I joined a company called Health Network Incorporated. Our team was sent to the island to embark on the fresh ground for the marketing purposes of our reflexology machines to doctors and locals. There were four of us in the team, and we found a staff house just a few meters away from the Pacific Ocean on the left and equidistant to the right is the Catanduanes Town Market. There, a number of tricycles and jeeps can take you anywhere you wanna go on the island.

I can vividly remember the day I set my foot on the old pier of Catanduanes. It was lunchtime – because there are only two travel slots to choose from, one in the morning with ETA of lunchtime and one in the afternoon with ETA at early dinner time. Our first lunch was spent in one of the small stalls in the market, which is about 5 minutes ride from the pier. The food was yum, although most are cooked from carabao meat because that seems to be the island’s main meat source. Pork is rare and is usually imported from the ‘mainland’ which is the third district of Albay, hence its high cost.

Our work is to ‘zone’ our area, thereby allowing us to go from one place to the other. Young and energetic that we all are, we would always inject a side trip to some discovery-worthy places as recommended by the locals whom we get in contact with. Our very first few trips were spent in the city proper, learning where the important go-to places on the island which are almost city-centric. Catanduanes has a charming beauty with the combination of abundant nature and rich funds as exhibited by the huge government and church edifices. Everything seems to be huge in here but the malls which remain to be a one-floor type of establishments.

There are also important establishments we have visited like the Catanduanes Fortune, Catanduanes Hemp, Catanduanes Inn, and the Catanduanes Chicken House which transforms into the only disco house in the island at night. These are establishments are the longest in the trade and are owned by the richest locals on the island.

In our daily routes, we have seen the Maribina Falls, the Luyang Cave, the pinkish sand of Armenia Beach, and the Bato Church. Of course, we wouldn’t forget about the black sand on the shores of the town where we spent our breaks and weekends – swimming, playing, bickering, and/or shell picking.

At the time, there are just a few accommodations in the island. Among the most popular to salespeople are Marems, Catanduanes Inn, and Twin Rock.

There are no food chains in the island but there are few local food stops like the Chicken House.

Over the course of our stay in Catanduanes, I fell in love with its beauty and can say that it is a home far away from home.

Bacolod, Ilo-Ilo, Guimaras Guide for First Time Guests: An Itinerary

Bacolod City is one famous metropolitan in the South of the country because of its colorful festival, the Masskara. This festival showcases the different colors and creativity of the locals, it also shows the genuine smiles that the locals always have for guests and tourists. To date, it is among the festivities that are well embraced by national visitors as well as tourists. In October, the city is one very busy place due to this festivity and the high traffic of tourists from all around the world. Wanting not to be a tourist in my own country, I have also dreamed to visit the city one day and that dream was realized not once but twice.

My first Bacolod trip was in 2011 with the same travel buddies I had years ago and the second was in 2014 with a long lost friend whom I rekindled friendship with. The first time was a backpacking tour from the city to Ilo-ilo city where we jumped off to the secluded but wonderful Guimaras. It was in January which was wrong timing because the festivals of Sinulog and Dinagyang were happening in nearby cities, Cebu and IloIlo respectively. The second one was an exclusive vacation in Bacolod city just in time for the MassKara Festival. This travel story is the recollection of the first travel with family

We enjoyed our first travel that we hope to continue doing it, this time in the nearby Negros cities Bacolod and Ilo-Ilo. This travel is just like the first one, a five-day tour to the attractions of Negros with days 1 and 2 in Bacolod, 3 and 4 in Guimaras with sides in Ilo-Ilo, and fifth back in Bacolod.

Day 1

Our first day of the trip was spent worrying and waiting for our other travel buddies from Legazpi city in Silay-Bacolod International Airport. This was due to a bad weather that has caused cancelled schedules in the city. Eventually, the weather cleared and they were flown an hour late from the original schedule to the city of smiles where we await. Once the plane was there, we moved to the arrival area and greeted them both with happiness for seeing them once again and in excitement for another week of endless fun and learning.

Soon, we are out of the airport and to the vehicle with our tour guide. The road to the city is almost an hour travel from the international airport. The road trip was filled with history talks, views of long sugar cane plantations on both our left and right, and clean jokes. Our guide took us to our hotel first because our other companions were so tired. As soon as we checked in, we decided to cancel the tour for that day since we only have two hours to burn and instead ordered some dinner and rest. Around eight in the evening, when everyone has recharged from the long trips, we decided to start touring the city proper on our own – at least those nearby. We went down and started walking towards the capitol and park but too bad, the lighting was poor in those areas – I’m not sure if it was always like that there or there was current interruption on that spot of the city. Dismayed, we head back to the hotel, watched TV and planned for next day.

Day 2

Our day 2 was a rather early day because of the downtime we had the other day. We immediately head down the boulevard to enjoy a stroll to the highlights of the city. We stroll by San Sebastian Cathedral, the St LaSalle University, Bacolod Public Plaza, Capitol Park & Lagoon, Activity Center, Panaad Park & Stadium, and museums. The long walks were tiring but the food in the city is healing – we headed down to the famous Manokan Country to enjoy a sumptuous lunch of local flavors of poultry and seafood, and we were not disappointed! Everything was fresh, tasty, and best of all inexpensive! Nearby is the SM Bacolod city, which we explored before going to the terminal to buy ourselves tickets to Ilo-Ilo the following day.

Believing that we had our fill of the attractions in the city, we packed early for next day’s adventure. The next day, we woke up early to get a glimpse of the sunrise in the city park and then proceed to the mall to grab a quick bite and buy some food and necessities. Then we went to the terminal and waited for our cruise. This one is a shorter ride compared to our Cebu to Bohol Ro-Ro trip but not short of sceneries. Once we reach the port of Ilo-Ilo, we walked around the park and into some mango market of sort and Bachoy stalls. We found a nice and old house along the way to the Parola Port where we have to take another short boat ride to Guimaras.

In 15 minutes, we reached our destination. We alight the boat and walked to the nearby tourism station to register and get a few pointers while in the area. We have arranged a boat ride that will take us to our resort of choice, Baras Beach Resort, but we didn’t knew that the land travel to that other port will take hours as well. And so we hire a trike to tour us around the place. We stopped frequently to take photos, watch the vast mango plantations across the land, and to buy souvenirs. We were able to snap some photos of the Capitol building, the Convent, and Siete Picados or the 7 islets off the north of the island.

We arrived at the pier with our eyes full of memories and our hearts singing in happiness. The boat waiting for us was alone at the dock and there were nothing on the parking lot. Other times, we would have been scared but we weren’t even close to that because we were so excited. The boat ride was a bit long but eventually, we arrived to a secluded beach resort where a number of cottages punctuated the hilly surroundings. We reached the shore where a huge 2 storey home was and we were greeted with happy faces and delicious iced teas. They gave us instructions and assigned us to the cottage at the other side of the resort. There were no electric resources in the resort but generators, which will be cut by 10 in the evening.

As soon as we are settled in the cottage, we went down to the beach and tried the warm water. There were kayaks idling at the side of the resort so I boarded one and paddled to a nearby shore, which at our point looks white as white can get. It was indeed white sand beach on that side of the island but it was barren. I saw a man who was probably taking woods from the island but he was so shy to come up and say hi instead retreated into the mountains. There was an eerie feel in the beach and the mountains behind that compeled me to go back to my kayak and paddle back to the resort as fast as I can. When I reached the resort though, my travel companions would like to try and go to that island though so I paddled back with my friends this time.

There, we frolic the white sand and enjoyed the sight. We swam and waved at small fishermen’s boats passing by. When the sun was about to set, we paddled back to the resort, stopped by the resort’s mezzanine to order dinner and went back up to our cottage. After taking a bath and changing our clothes, we went down to the main guesthouse for dinner. The caretakers were so nice to set up a dinner by the sea with the stars and moon shining from up above. They also placed a few tall torches around our dining area to ensure that we have enough lights for ourselves.

On the other side was another table for two. There were two other guests in the resort, both white male and foreigners. They weren’t friendly so we just minded our own businesses. The food was glorious. For P150 each, we had our fill of seafood, pork, chicken, and vegetable that we started thinking how the business can manage to survive the operation expenses versus the low volume of guests that are coming in. Well, maybe, in summer, there are more people who are staying in the resort and perk up the profit.

We frolic the beach some more before we retired to our cottages where we await the 10 pm mark to shut down the electricity.

Day 3

Surprisingly, we didn’t miss the electricity overnight and even when we woke up the next day. The breeze was our centralized air conditioning and the sounds that nocturnal animals have lulled us in deep sleep. The next day, we asked for hot water and tried some of the delicacies that we had bought along the way to the island. The sun was well up when we got up so we missed the sun rise in this side of the country. The beach was calm though and it looked inviting. After our breakfast, we got down to the beach and started swimming, kayaking, and everything that anyone would do in the water. Then a fisherman boat came by, bringing live seafood. Since there are only a few of us in the resort, the owner and caretaker didn’t buy everything. I would have bought all those if I were staying longer or if I had an ice chest.

The day went on fast and a little over lunch, we started our journey back to Guimaras mainland. The boat ride was fun and as the day before, we docked at an almost barren port. The guide and trike that we had rented the other day was there already, waiting for us. We said our goodbyes, gave the boatman his bonus and board the trike for what seemed an eternity of road trip across Guimaras. We stopped a couple of times once again for the delicacies we are going to take back home and souvenirs. After that, we went directly for the port that will take us to the mainland of Ilo-Ilo.

After a 15-minute boat ride, we are back in Ilo-Ilo. Once again, we braved the long walk to the port that where we will board the SuperCat that will take us back to Bacolod. Not stopping to get something to eat, we had our late lunch enroute to Bacolod. We reached Bacolod before sundown and we head directly to the Manokan Country to grab a bite. We had what locals would always have, skewed chicken with smokey and local flavors, beef stew, and seafood. When we were full, we dropped by the mall that was just in front of the food strip and shopped for souvenirs and provisions. Then head back to the hotel to check in.

The remaining hours we had for that day was spent bumming around the busy street of Lacson and looking for recommended attractions and local food strips. We missed the Ruins for the Negrense Museum and all the old houses that can be found within the CBD. After lunch, we left for the airport and waited some more for the plane that would fly us over to Manila – which came in late so we had to burn more hours waiting in the airport. We could’ve gone somewhere nice if they had told us that the plane would be delayed for more than three hours. Oh well, the perks of sale fares. J

How to Get There

Ø  By Land-Sea-Land via Ro-Ro

Ø  By air via Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines or Air Asia

Cost of the entire trip

P3,000 excluding the airfares and transpo from our place to the Airport

Visiting Catanduanes, The Land of the Howling Winds

One of the many islands I had the privilege to explore on official business is Catanduanes. I practically lived in the island for over six (6) months, working on weekdays and exploring on weekends. I have been to each and every known tourist destination and attraction of the island, except those that require crossing seas. I have also taken my trips to the mainland of Bicol via the only two passenger or public ports of the island, in San Andres and right in the heart of Virac. It is therefore safe to say that I know the island pretty well and my father will definitely be proud of me for knowing his roots, my roots.

 

Catanduanes Daily Ferry (RORO) Schedule

Back in 2000, there are two ferry companies lying the Lagunoy gulf to take passengers to and from Tabaco and Catanduanes via Virac and San Andres. One of the shipping lines (Bicolandia Lines) was owned by a Tabaco local business mogul while the other (Regina), from San Andres – the owner of Catanduanes Hemp. Eugenia plied the Tabaco – Virac route while Regina plied the San Andres – Tabaco route. Each shipping line has two vessels – one in the morning and another in the afternoon – from different ports in Catanduanes. Due to the high volume of passengers, a Supercraft was added to the lines later on.

 

Here’s the RoRo Schedule of both shipping lines:

Tabaco City to Virac

Ø  MV Eugenia (Bicolandia Lines)

                (052) 487-6349

                Daily 8:00 am

Ø  MV Star Ferry 1 (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 2:00 pm

Virac, Catanduanes to Tabaco City

Ø  MV Star Ferry 1 (Regina Shipping Lines)

(052) 811-1707

                Daily 9:00 am

Ø  MV Eugenia (Bicolandia Lines)

(052) 487-6349

Daily 1:30 pm

Tabaco City to San Andres, Catanduanes

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

(052) 811-1707

Daily 5:30 am

Ø  MV Regina Calixta II (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 8:00 am 

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily (1:30 pm) 

San Andres, Catanduanes To Tabaco City

Ø  MV Regina Calixta III (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

Daily 9:30 am 

Ø  MV Regina Calixta II (Regina Shipping Lines)

                (052) 811-1707

                Daily 12:00 NN

 These days though, only one one vessel plies the Tabaco – Virac route and two ferries from Regina Shipping are transporting passengers on a daily basis. Here is the schedule of the routes:

 Tabaco City (Albay) – San Andres (Catanduanes)

Ø  Leaving at 0700H (7 AM) and arriving at 1300H (1 PM)

 San Andres (Catanduanes) – Tabaco City (Albay)

Ø  0800H (8 AM) and 1300H (1 PM)

For inquiries, Regina Shipping Lines can be contacted in these numbers:

Ø  Tabaco City booking office: 09237383785

Ø  San Andres booking office: 09237383790

Getting around Catanduanes

The main transportation when you are in Virac is tricycle and for long distance, there are jeepneys and vans. The terminal for jeepneys and buses are located near the Virac and San Andres markets while the vans and private rides are near the port of San Andres and Virac. There are also motorcycles and bikes for rent for those who want to get to their destinations faster.

Attractions in Catanduanes

Catanduanes has 11 Towns. Catanduanes is divided into two parts, West Catanduanes and East Catanduanes. West Catanduanes is composed of 3 Towns that lies in the western part of the Island; Virac, San Andres (Calolbon) and Caramoran while East Catanduanes is composed of 8 Towns that lies in the eastern part of the Island; Bato, San Miguel, Baras, Gigmoto, Viga, Panganiban (Payo), Bagamanoc and Pandan. Each Town has their attractions.

The West Attractions of Catanduanes

Ø  Little Batag Beach in Virac, Catanduanes

“Saday na Batag” to locals, the Little Batag Beach is situated in Barangay Batag of Virac, Catanduanes. 15 kilometers west of Virac Town, this Catanduanes attraction can be reached in 30 minutes.

Ø  Talahid Falls, Cabungahan, San Andre, Catanduanes

Featuring a 2-tiered waterfalls, Talahid Falls has brought Brgy. Cabungahan of San Andres (Calolbon) to the limelight. It is 26 kilometers west of San Andres and can be reached in an hour and a half.

Ø  Hawan Grande Luyang Cave / Cueva de Grande in Virac, Catanduanes

“Hawan Grande Luyang Cave” to locals, the Cueva de Grande is situated in Brgy. Hawan Grande of Virac, Catanduanes. This cave can be reached in around 20 or 25 minutes and is 13 kilometers off west of Virac Town.

Ø  Prayer Mountain of Catanduanes, VIrac

10 kilometers off the west of Virac is the Prayer Mountain. It is a maintained natural resource in Brgy. Bigaa, Virac, Catanduanes.

Ø  Tampad Beach Talisoy Beach, Virac, Catanduanes

Also known as “Talisoy Beach”, “Talisoy Cove” and/or “Jesus’ Face Beach”, Tampad Beach is situated in Brgy. Talisod, Virac, Catanduanes. It is 14 kilometers off west of the town and 20 minutes to reach. 

Ø  Binanderahan Hill, Palumbanes Island, Brgy. Toytoy, Caramoran, Catanduanes

“Parompong” to many, Palumbanes Islands or simply Palumbanes, is a group of islets 60 kilometers west of Caramoran, in the Maqueda Channel. It can be reached in about 3 hours.

Ø  Museo de Catanduanes, Virac, Catanduanes

3 minutes or half kilometer away from the CBD of Virac is the Museo de Catanduanes. The island’s main museum was built for the public through the efforts of the Provincial Tourism Office of Catanduanes.

Ø  Kuripdas Surf Spot

Kuripdas Surf Spot is 15 kilometers or 25 minutes away from the CBD of Virac, thereby the nearest surfing location for those who visits the island.

Ø  Mamangal Beach

In 20 minutes and 12 kilometers from downtown Virac, the Mamangal Beach is the nearest place to enjoy the sun and shores of the island. This beach is in Barangay Balite.

Ø  Magnesia del Sur Beach

25 minutes or 15 kilometers off Virac is the Magnesia del Sur Beach. It may be underdeveloped but is preferred by most tourists.

Ø  Magnesia del Norte Beach

Gold to white sand is what made Magnesia del Norte Beach appealing to tourists. It is 27 minutes or 14.5 kilometers off CBD.

Ø  Luyang Cave

10 kilometers or 20 minutes off Virac is Luyang Cave of Barangay Lictin, San Andres, Catanduanes. It features lots and lots of bats as well as titanic rock formations.

Ø  Sto Domingo River

Santo Domingo River is 10 minutes or 6.5 kilometers from Virac and is a good swimming alternative for the salty beaches of the island. It is frequented by locals and is gaining popularity with tourists.

Ø  Batong Paloway

The Batong Paluway is a gradually increasing in size stone with etchings of Our Lady of Sorrows. It can be visited 30 minutes or 20 kilometers from San Andres.

Ø  Virac Cathedral

Right in the heart of Virac is the Virac Cathedral aka Church of the Immaculate Conception.

Ø  Mount Cagmasoso

Home to Luyang Cave, mount Cagmasoso is the highest mountain in Catanduanes. It is in San Andres and is 30 minutes of 15 kilometers away from the CBD.

Ø  Amenia Beach

25 minutes or 13 kilometers off San Andres is the Amenia Beach. It features cream-colored fine sand and clear unspoiled waters.

Ø  Igang Beach aka Twin Rock Beach Resort

Well-developed with unspoiled beauty 15 minutes or 12 kilometers from CBD of Virac is Igang Beach, but is more famous in the name of Twin Rock Beach.

Ø  Marilima Beach

Featuring white sands and blue waters, Marilima Beach has become a tourist attraction in Virac. It can be reached in 20 minutes and 14 kilometers.

Ø  Batag Beach

Right next to another tourist attration beach in Virac, Marilima Beach, is the Batag Beach. It is famous for the great rock formations on it and the pristine waters. In just 22 minutes and 14.5 kilometers, this attraction can be easily reached.

East Attractions of Catanduanes

Ø  Bitaogan Beach, Bato, Catanduanes

Bitaogan Beach is known in many names: Bitaogan Cove and Victoria Cove. This beach is in Sitio Bitaogan, Pananaogan, Bato and can be reached in an hour or 18 kilometers.

Ø  Batalay Mangrove Ecological Park, Bato, Catanduanes

30 minutes or 20 kilometers off Bato is the Mangrove Reforestation Program of Barangay Batalay. It is a 10 –hectare plantation in the town of Bato.

Ø  Cagraray Island aka Patag Island, Catanduanes

“Patag Island” to locals, the Cagraray Island is in Brgy. Cagraray, Bato, Catanduanes. It can be reached in 1.5 hours or 30 Kilometers.

Ø  Nahulugan Falls, Gigmoto, Catanduanes

2.5 hours and 55 kilometers off Gigmoto is Nahulugan Falls, still an undiscovered beauty in the verdant hills of the town.

Ø  Binurong Point, Brgy. Guinsaanan, Baras, Catanduanes

Binurong Point is the pride of Brgy. Guinsaanan of Baras as it joins the attractions of the island. It can be reached in an hour and a half or 35 kilometers.

Ø  DOST PAG-ASA Weather Radar Station

In 30 minutes to an hour or approximate 20 to 25 kilometers, the PAGASA Weather Radar Station can be reached. It is in Barangay Buenavista, Bato, and is becoming one of the most visited destinations in Catanduanes.

Ø  Bote Lighthouse

22 kilometers or 35 to 45 minutes off Bato is Brgy. Bote, home to the Bote Lighthouse. It is an attraction that is visited by national and international tourists.

Ø  Sakahon Beach

Sakahon Beach is in Brgy. Bote, 35 minutes or 20 kilometers off Bato.

Ø  Mount Lantad

Bato’s pride, Mount Lantad, can provide 360 degrees of Bato and Virac perspective. It is about a couple or more hours trek and 14 kilometers from the town proper. It stands less than 1,200 feet above the ground.

Ø  Balacay Point

Balacay Point or Benticayan point is a tourist spot in Brgy. Benticayan, Baras. It can be reached in an hour and a half and 35 kilometers off town proper.

Ø  Bato Church

Bato Church is one of the oldest Catholic parishes in the country, dating back the 16th century. It can be reached in 15 minutes and 13 kilometers from town proper.  

Ø  Puraran Surf Spot

This is where the “Majestic Waves” of the island can be found. Surfer’s fantasy is definitely fulfilled in the Puraran Surf Spot. It can be reached in an hour and 35 kilometers off the town proper.

Ø  Maribina Falls

With 5 to 6 meters swimming pool, the Maribina Falls has become one of the most famous waterfalls in the island. It is in the town of Bato and can be reached in 8 minutes and 5.5 kilometers off the town proper.